Okay, I have all three CR's. They are a mess as I thought. I started this once before and had major life changing surgery, became unemployed for a time, large medical bills (that insurance covered thank gods!) and now I'm back to work and getting things back in order. My scores are now something like: (from memory) EQ: 514 EX: 540 TU: 418 Heck if I know why TU is so low..but I will stay there is a lot of stuff on there that is past SOL. There is even an old American Express that's about 15 yrs old, showing a bal of $26. This is overwhelming, that has not changed. I know have a Voluntary Repo with Ford showing $12K. They have offered a few months back to settle for $6k but that's another post. Basically I need your sage advice on: 1) Where to start first and not feel like a ****ing looser 2) Assure me that I can make the 800's 3) Whether online disputing is okay or just not reccomended. Thanks muchly, Beary
Well, I can only tell you what worked for me. I started w/ my oldest stuff first, for the only reason that I wanted to see some results early, and not get in over my head. Not much of a point gain, but it all went bye-bye pretty quickly. I also wanted to do the easy ones first, so I could continue studying on how to work on the toughies! I did all of my disputes online. It was much faster than snail mail, cheaper, and I didn't have to write the reasons in a letter. I highly recommend it! good luck!!
...And I can only tell you what worked for me ... I've done all my disputes snail mail and it's worked very well. I'm not sure which is faster since I've never tried online, but I've had almost all the derogs I've disputed via snail mail come off... Just my experience, take from it what you will... Good Luck!! prissypoo
I like that strategy by disputing the older items first, that may not be so tough to remove. My concern is doing online disputs may not produce the datable paperwork in the infortunate and hopefully unlikley event I have to go to Court.
Dispute as 'obsolete'. Anything over 7 years has gotta go. (Obsolete). I can't answer about your repo situation. I hope you mean you are a WINNING 'loser'. I am saying to PLEASE not put yourself down. You are not your credit. You are yourself, and you happen to have a 'credit' situation. ;-) Yes you can make the 800's. It will take time and patience. Remember, the credit score model is flaky and even people who have had credit for YEARS haven't broken the 800's yet. I think it's great to dispute online, because you get instant feedback that they received it, and don't have to wait for the green card, or regular mail. I did something that worked for me, but I don't know if it would work for everyone. I kept disputing 1 particular account online and got labeled 'frivilous', so I disputed it 'snail mail', and it got deleted. So persistence pays!!!!!!! Good luck on getting everything straight......
Did you see the Un-FAQ? This post is in there...the rest is good info taken from past posts that may help you as well. -Peace, Dave
Online dispute that sounds pretty good to me. when you do online, how many item did you dispute each time and how many days did you wait til next online dispute.
The first disputes I did were TU and I didn't send them CRRR... With TU, they always send me a letter saying, "we received your dispute on this day..." so I like to save some money. With the other two (frick and frack I like to call them) I usually send everything CRRR. Of course, it's entirely up to you. The purpose of the CRRR I think is to create a paper trail for possible violations, so if that is your strategy, go for it... Otherwise, get those dispute letters out. I was entirely surprised by how much fell off just by disputing. And don't get discouraged, there's a whole community of people here sharing in your credit repair journey... prissypoo
90 days I read there. Now is that 90 days per item or per CB? If by CB this is gonna take for ever. For instance, on an obsolete AX account with TU 1. Send dispute for AX but if I have Citi dispute with TU I have to wait 90 days after I send the AX dispute? or: 2. Send dispute for AX, but wait at least 90 days before sending AX dispute again, and same for Citi, send dispute with TU but okay to sendat same time as AX.
I started a new round as soon as I got the results from the current one. I'd never wait 90 days. That may have been about re-disputing a verified tradeline.
I assume you mean EX? Correct...otherwise I would be disputing to a sorority I think (AX=Alpha Chi). ) No not at all...treat the CRA's just as they are...separate entities. You do not need to wait for a result from TU before begining a dispute for the same account with Ex. If you get a verification back for Experian on account X, then it may be rejected immediately if you simply turn right around and re-dispute (not always but Experian is the worst for this). Therefore, go on to dispute account Y with Experian (if you have more to dispute) and come back to account X next month. Similarly, if you dispute online this month and it gets verified...next time try CRRR, maybe FAX the time after that, or return to online disputing. If you have multiple disputes for EACH CRA, submit them 4 or 5 at a time (not a hardfast rule...just do not try and dispute everything on your report, as it MAY be labled as frivolous) These are NOT hardfast rules, just observations by members of this board of what TENDS to work, and what TENDS not to work as well. That is all in the FAQ. If the FAQ is confusing you, please submit suggestions to the feedback forum so we can clear up the confusing lingo. -Peace, Dave
*This item does not belong to me. *I have never paid this account late. *The current balance is incorrect. *This account is closed. These are option from Equifax online dispute. Can you give me an idea of each option? I know it's up to my account situation but I don't know what to choose in some fo my accounts. Thanks...
any account that is over 7years old or near seven years old just call and say it should be deleted, those are usually really easy. for others we need more information about what type of accounts (student loans, chargeoffs, etc) to give you better advice.
